Winterizing Outdoor Faucets and Garden Hoses
What's inside
Why the hose comes off first
The most common first-timer mistake is leaving the hose attached. Even a frost-free sillcock only protects itself by draining the water out of its long stem. A connected hose blocks that drain and holds water right where the freeze hits. The split usually happens inside the wall, so you won't see it until you turn the tap on in April and water pours into the basement. So the hose comes off first, then you deal with the faucet, then the cover goes on last. A cover over a faucet that still has a hose or trapped water does nothing.
Know which faucet you have
Frost-free: the valve body is 6–12 in (15–30 cm) long and sits inside the wall. From the basement or crawlspace, you'll see the supply pipe meet a long brass tube running out through the wall. These need no indoor shutoff. Disconnect the hose and confirm the faucet drains: turn it on, shut it off, and it should dribble for a few seconds. If it doesn't dribble, it may be installed level instead of sloping slightly down to the outside, so it won't drain itself. Treat it like a standard spigot if it has an indoor valve, and mention it to a plumber or your landlord.
Standard spigot (UK: outside tap): this is a short faucet with the valve right at the wall. Find its indoor shutoff. It is usually within a few feet behind the spigot, on a basement ceiling, behind an access panel, or (in the UK) often under the kitchen sink. Look for a valve with a small brass bleeder cap on its side.
To drain a standard spigot, work in this order:
- Close the indoor valve.
- Open the outdoor faucet and leave it open all winter. This lets air in from outside. Without it, water stays held in the pipe like liquid in a sipping straw with your finger over the top.
- Unscrew the bleeder cap over a bucket to let the trapped section empty, then refit the cap.
Renters: ask the landlord where the shutoff is before you go hunting, and don't take a wrench to anything. Underground sprinkler or irrigation lines are a separate job that needs blowing out, so this routine doesn't cover them.
Where to save time and where not to
- Save time on the hoses. Don't wait for them to drip dry. Lay each one out straight, ideally downhill, then lift one end to shoulder height and walk it hand-over-hand toward the other end. Water shoots out ahead of you, and a 50 ft (15 m) hose empties in about 3 minutes.
- Spend time on the shutoff. Confirm the outdoor faucet actually stops flowing once the indoor valve is closed. A trickle that stops within a minute or two is just the pipe emptying. A steady stream means the valve isn't sealing.
- Buy foam faucet covers early. Get them in September or early October. Hardware stores sell out the day a freeze warning hits the local news.
How to tell it's done
- ☐ No hose, splitter, timer, or nozzle is left on any outdoor faucet.
- ☐ Battery hose timers are drained and their batteries removed.
- ☐ Standard spigots are left open and run dry, with the indoor valve closed.
- ☐ Nothing is dripping at the indoor valve or bleeder cap the next morning.
- ☐ A cover is snug against the wall on every spigot.
- ☐ Hoses are coiled and stored in a garage, shed, or basement, out of the sun.
- When you can't find an indoor shutoff for a spigot after checking the wall directly behind it, the basement ceiling, and under the kitchen sink→Check from inside whether the faucet has a long brass body running into the wall. If it does, it's frost-free and only needs the hose removed and a cover. If not, ask your landlord or a plumber before the first freeze.
- When the indoor shutoff valve is stiff or won't turn by hand→Stop rather than forcing it with a wrench, because old valve stems snap or start leaking at the packing nut. Fit an insulated cover as a stopgap and call a plumber or your landlord to replace or free the valve.
- When the outdoor faucet keeps running in a steady stream after you've closed the indoor valve→The shutoff isn't sealing, so try closing it another quarter turn by hand. If water still flows after 2 minutes, close the outdoor faucet, cover it, and book a plumber. On any night forecast below 28°F (-2°C) before the repair, close the house's main water shutoff and open the outdoor faucet.
- • Replacement hose washers — 1 pack
- • Insulated faucet cover — 1 pcs per faucet
- • Bucket — 1 pcs
- • Flashlight — 1 pcs
- • Rib-joint pliers or rubber jar opener — 1 pcs
- • Hose reel or wall hanger — 1 pcs
- 01Disconnect and drain every hoseUnscrew each hose, nozzle, splitter, and timer, then lift one end of the laid-out hose to shoulder height and walk toward the other end until no more water comes out, which takes about 3–4 minutes per 50 ft (15 m) hose and roughly 20 minutes for two or three hoses with a stuck coupling.⏱ 20 min
- 02Identify each faucet type and find its shutoffLook inside behind each spigot: a long brass body running into the wall means frost-free, while a short faucet means you need to find its indoor valve with the small bleeder cap.⏱ 10 min
- 03Shut off and drain standard spigotsClose the indoor valve, open the outdoor faucet and leave it open, then unscrew the bleeder cap over a bucket until it stops dripping and refit the cap.⏱ 10 min
- 04Fit an insulated cover on each spigotHook the loop over the faucet handle and tighten the strap until the cover's foam rim presses flat against the wall with no gap.⏱ 5 min
- 05Coil and store the hoses indoorsCoil each hose in loops about 2 ft (60 cm) across, replace any cracked washers, and hang or lay it flat in a garage, shed, or basement away from sunlight.⏱ 10 min