Classic Apple Pie with a Lattice Crust

Cold butter is the whole secret

Flaky crust comes from visible pea-to-almond-size butter pieces that steam apart in the oven. Cut cold butter into cubes, work fast, and add ice water one tablespoon at a time until a squeezed handful holds together. Stop there, because extra water and kneading make crust tough. If the dough feels greasy or sticky at any point, chill it for 10 minutes instead of pushing on.

Use a food processor (pulse 8-10 times) if your hands run warm, or a pastry cutter for more control. All-purpose flour is called plain flour in the UK and Australia. If your butter is salted, cut the crust salt to 1/2 tsp.

All-butter tastes best, while swapping 1/4 of the butter for shortening is more forgiving for first-timers. For two pies, make two separate batches of dough rather than one double batch, so the butter stays cold and the processor doesn't overfill.

The shortcut people use is making the dough up to 2 days ahead. The other is buying refrigerated rolled crusts (two per pie; in the UK and Australia, two sheets of ready-rolled shortcrust) and putting your effort into the filling and lattice. The hour the dough chills is the natural slot for peeling and slicing apples.

Apples and juice control

Mix a tart apple that holds its shape with a firm sweet one:

• US and Canada: Granny Smith with Honeycrisp, Braeburn, Jonagold or Northern Spy.
• UK: half Bramley (it softens into sauce) with Braeburn or Cox.
• Australia: Granny Smith with Pink Lady.

Avoid Red Delicious and McIntosh on their own because they turn to mush. Slice evenly to 1/4 inch (6 mm) so every piece cooks at the same rate.

Flour as a thickener gives a slightly cloudy, forgiving set. Cornstarch gives a clearer filling but only thickens once it truly boils, so with cornstarch the center bubbling check matters even more. A runny pie usually means too little thickener, an underbaked center or a pie cut too early.

If your apples are very juicy, toss them with the sugar and let them sit 30 minutes. Drain off the liquid, simmer it to a syrup, then add it back. This optional step gives the cleanest slices.

A lattice without stress

Cut strips on a parchment-lined sheet and chill them for 10 minutes before weaving, because cold strips lift and fold without tearing. Lay 5 strips one way, fold back every other one, and place a cross strip. Repeat until the top is covered.

Wider strips (1 to 1 1/2 inches / 2.5-4 cm) are easier to handle than thin ones and still leave plenty of gaps for steam. Rushed on the day? A simple criss-cross of strips laid on top without weaving looks nearly the same.

Bake until it is actually done

Bake on a preheated rimmed baking sheet on the lowest rack so the bottom crust browns. Give the oven and sheet a full 30 minutes to heat. With a glass plate, a fridge-chilled pie is fine on the hot sheet, but never a frozen one.

Start hot at 425°F (220°C, 200°C fan) to set the crust, then lower to 375°F (190°C, 170°C fan). The pie is done when:

• Thick, slow bubbles rise in the center gaps of the lattice, not just at the edges.
• A knife slides into the apples without resistance.
• If you have an instant-read thermometer, the center reads about 200°F (93°C).

Pale crust and thin, fast bubbles mean it needs more time. Cool it at least 4 hours so the juices set. For Thanksgiving, baking the day before is the standard move: the pie holds at room temperature, loosely covered, for up to 2 days.